#MPWM #OLOlive pants Pattern Preparation

Preparing the pattern

Note: This post has been edited from the original to correct inches versus metric measurements.

Team Trace

Trace your selected size leaving a margin of several inches along the top and side edges of the pattern. Do not cut out the pattern yet.

Extend the lines

Draw lines to extend crotch and side seam as shown.For the crotch seam, extend the lines according to the pattern.

For the side seam draw a line parallel to the grainline from the outer edge of the side seam (approximately the lengthen/shorten line on pattern)¹.

Extend the margins

Add 2 inches/5 cm or more all along the top and sides of the pattern, I call this margin the “adjustment zone”.

2 inches/5 cm is a minimum, read below to determine if you should add more.

Should I add more?

Here I break this down into adding more than 2in/10cm to either to the top or sides:

1. Adding more than 2 inches/10cm to the top

• Add an additional 1 in/2.5 cm to the top of the pattern (waistline) IF you are above 5ft 6in /168cm.

• Add an additional 1 in/2.5 cm more to the top of the pattern (waistline) IF you have selected size G through N.

• Add an additional 2 in/5 cm more to the top of the pattern (waistline) IF you have selected size O through T.

For example, if you are 5ft6in/168cm and have selected size H, you would add 4 in/10cm total. If you are 5ft6in/168cm and have selected size O, you would add 5 in/13cm total.

2. Adding more than 2 inches to the side

• Add an additional 1 in/2.5 cm more to the side of the pattern (outseam) IF you think your waist size would put you into 2 sizes or more larger than the starting size you selected.

For example if you selected size F as your base pattern size, but if you measured your waist, you would be more inclined to go with size H, then add 3in/8cm to the outseam.

Cut out the pattern

Now you have the pattern prepared for the toile.

Check your pattern has the following:

• Grainline

• Notches

• Darts and pleats marked extended to meet the top edge. I also recommend drawing in the center fold line for darts and pleats².

• Mark crotch point (#OLOlivePants has a ⅝ in/1.5 cm seam allowance)

• Mark the hemline fold

Congratulations! You are now ready to cut out the toile!

As always, questions and comments welcome.

I thought I would get lots of questions about size selection, I hope this means everyone is still working along with their pants project. Right now I am in bed with a raging fever and some type of flu, so the pace is working out well for me.

Next up is making the toile and we will be ready for the next Zoom session.

1. Note that this will eliminate the side pocket

2. Helpful for adjusting the pattern if we make changes to the darts and/or pleats