Re: Swedish tracing paper, my understanding is that this is a non-woven paper-like product. Remember that the toile is itself an approximation, a fake version of the real garment we are aiming for. But the properties (inherent to the weave) of fabric are an important contributor to design, especially for trousers. If these get ignored in the toile stage we are much further off to a point where the toile is not as helpful as it has the potential to be.
Thank you for the clear instructions. We are not adding the pockets for the finished pants?
I found an old sheet which is a great weight for a toile. I was so inspired that I used part of it to make a toile of the Donny Shirt. I’d already made a finished shirt but thought it might need to be a size larger — which it doesn’t I discovered by making the toile! Will make out of the fashion fabric soon.
There are two views, one with slant pockets and one with inseam pockets. For fitting we are eliminating the pocket until the pattern is adjusted. If this is your first time fitting TDCO then I highly recommend the afterthought inseam pocket.
Same here (with the flu), so I am reading all the next step related posts now. One question: I fall between sizes and am sizing down not up for all the reasons you suggest. But I do fall closer in terms of size to the upper size (Hip is 40.5" which is closer to size E than D). But at this point, do you recommend that we take a look at the finished measurements too? I like a certain amount ease which is less than the design intended ease (on the hips), so I am wondering how much this comes into play at this point. Hope you feel better soon!
Great question, this is similar to the question from another individual who was between sizes but closer to the larger size, you could start with either. At the moment, these are all just lines, it is when they are assembled into the garment that 'ease' comes into play. The ease will be determined by how close or far apart these lines end up being positioned in space relative to each other. The difference between body and finished garment measurements is a way of assessing how much we might have changed the design (or not) in the course of fitting.
I'm just getting to this step now - it mentions 2 inches/10cm in a couple of places, but 2 inches = 5cm. I'm going to assume that 5cm is the requirement here (because you also mention 1 inch = 2.5cm elsewhere) but just wanted to point it out in case other metric users are thrown by it.
If you have time that would be great, I was going to cover some pointers for putting it together, the general design, why the ease is constant throughout the size range, and talk about what to look for when starting to fit
I hope you feel better soon Ruth. My husband had a version of that two weeks ago and it was pretty horrible. He swallowed a lot of paracetamol to keep the fever under control.
I read your previous post and fit cleanly into an F for hip but H for waist. I’m also short from waist to hip and usually have to take out 2 inches of rise length. My pelvis is also tilted - long in the back and short in the front. So I’ll be starting with an F base and work from there. How awesome it is to be able to make clothes that actually fit us!
We have half a dozen participants in this group who are also part of the In The Folds sewing community. So we have a group within that doing this together online. Yay!
For our part, please take the time you need to rest.
No dramas for me selecting the size. It’s great to read the notes here on adding for waist difference. I had some notes from an earlier explanation I found which I interpreted incorrectly as having to add to the side seam if waist measurement suggested a smaller size than hip, so these earlier notes of mine didn’t make sense.
Also is it too early to ask what everyone’s thinking for fabric? I’m erring towards lightweight options purely because I live in a hot climate. An olive-coloured viscose brocade is my top pick because olive Olives would rock. I could also go a versatile black linen or cotton twill. What do others think?
Do you remember by any chance where you found that earlier explanation? I just checked the Threads article and this is correct. If you let me know I can correct the source.
Re fabric: These are great ideas, I adore olive as a color and already made an olive T-shirt
They are my own typed notes - so I am certain I have misinterpreted what I’ve originally read or seen. I’ve also studied a lot of others’ glowing reviews of their own experiences of TDCO so I’m sure it’s not your wording.
TDCO is a very robust approach but the issue is that it is not formulaic so to apply it effectively, you have to understand the principles involved. So it is entirely possible that I advised somebody to do this based on what they told me about their body plus the particular pattern they were using and then this became interpreted as a "rule". Because of the diversity of designs, patterns and grading, not to mention body types, there can be no universal formula, fitting is not 'plug and play' but when you understand the principles involved you can work it all out with one toile.
I’ve been spending the weekend redoing my craft room so that it will function better. For all my hobbies. I have a new sewing/cutting table, and I’m so excited to get into this part of the making! I have so many outfits planned in my head, I need my leopard Olive trousers!
Yeah, I’ve been using one of those foldable camping tables, it was functional, but not great, not least because it was in front of the drawers for a lot of my paper crafting supplies. We’ve been tearing things down, and putting things up, moving furniture around and doing other fixes in my flat since Friday afternoon. My fabric now has a home! Before it just lived in piles on countertops. My brother and dad built the table to my specifications today, and I can’t wait to use it!
That is so wonderful, a table made for you by special people in your life. Sending you lots of wishes for many magical creations with your brand new table.
Do you feel up to showing it to us during the zoom? No worries if not, hopefully the zoom will get you started, I will circle back to the start of fitting the crotch seam and inseam.
Feel better Ruth!
Thanks so much! Nearly 4PM and I am still in bed. So thankful for the weekend!
Hope you’re feeling better. I’m a bit behind but could you use Swedish tracing paper for the toile?
You are not behind at all, take your time!
Re: Swedish tracing paper, my understanding is that this is a non-woven paper-like product. Remember that the toile is itself an approximation, a fake version of the real garment we are aiming for. But the properties (inherent to the weave) of fabric are an important contributor to design, especially for trousers. If these get ignored in the toile stage we are much further off to a point where the toile is not as helpful as it has the potential to be.
I hope you are well by now.
Thank you for the clear instructions. We are not adding the pockets for the finished pants?
I found an old sheet which is a great weight for a toile. I was so inspired that I used part of it to make a toile of the Donny Shirt. I’d already made a finished shirt but thought it might need to be a size larger — which it doesn’t I discovered by making the toile! Will make out of the fashion fabric soon.
There are two views, one with slant pockets and one with inseam pockets. For fitting we are eliminating the pocket until the pattern is adjusted. If this is your first time fitting TDCO then I highly recommend the afterthought inseam pocket.
https://ithacamaven.substack.com/p/afterthought-pocket
Same here (with the flu), so I am reading all the next step related posts now. One question: I fall between sizes and am sizing down not up for all the reasons you suggest. But I do fall closer in terms of size to the upper size (Hip is 40.5" which is closer to size E than D). But at this point, do you recommend that we take a look at the finished measurements too? I like a certain amount ease which is less than the design intended ease (on the hips), so I am wondering how much this comes into play at this point. Hope you feel better soon!
Great question, this is similar to the question from another individual who was between sizes but closer to the larger size, you could start with either. At the moment, these are all just lines, it is when they are assembled into the garment that 'ease' comes into play. The ease will be determined by how close or far apart these lines end up being positioned in space relative to each other. The difference between body and finished garment measurements is a way of assessing how much we might have changed the design (or not) in the course of fitting.
I'm just getting to this step now - it mentions 2 inches/10cm in a couple of places, but 2 inches = 5cm. I'm going to assume that 5cm is the requirement here (because you also mention 1 inch = 2.5cm elsewhere) but just wanted to point it out in case other metric users are thrown by it.
Thanks so much for pointing out the mistake, I have now edited the post!
Check your email for an appreciation of my thanks!
Shopuld we have the toile sewn up before this weeks Zoom?
If you have time that would be great, I was going to cover some pointers for putting it together, the general design, why the ease is constant throughout the size range, and talk about what to look for when starting to fit
I hope you feel better soon Ruth. My husband had a version of that two weeks ago and it was pretty horrible. He swallowed a lot of paracetamol to keep the fever under control.
I read your previous post and fit cleanly into an F for hip but H for waist. I’m also short from waist to hip and usually have to take out 2 inches of rise length. My pelvis is also tilted - long in the back and short in the front. So I’ll be starting with an F base and work from there. How awesome it is to be able to make clothes that actually fit us!
We have half a dozen participants in this group who are also part of the In The Folds sewing community. So we have a group within that doing this together online. Yay!
Yes you are right, it is really a superpower! A friend just sent me a photo of $650 linen pants for sale that are basically the Fremantle pants!
Just wondering if the Sunday zoom is still happening?
Ah ...
I just scheduled for every weekend and didn't notice the skips.
I was thinking about that possibility, this is the first time I have organized anything like this and am always open to feedback!
The next zoom sessions are March 1st/2nd
This link has all the information with times and dates:
https://ithacamaven.substack.com/p/mpwm-zoom-sessions
Let me know if you have any questions in the meantime!
Get well soon, Ruth.
For our part, please take the time you need to rest.
No dramas for me selecting the size. It’s great to read the notes here on adding for waist difference. I had some notes from an earlier explanation I found which I interpreted incorrectly as having to add to the side seam if waist measurement suggested a smaller size than hip, so these earlier notes of mine didn’t make sense.
Also is it too early to ask what everyone’s thinking for fabric? I’m erring towards lightweight options purely because I live in a hot climate. An olive-coloured viscose brocade is my top pick because olive Olives would rock. I could also go a versatile black linen or cotton twill. What do others think?
Thanks so much for your kind wishes!
Do you remember by any chance where you found that earlier explanation? I just checked the Threads article and this is correct. If you let me know I can correct the source.
Re fabric: These are great ideas, I adore olive as a color and already made an olive T-shirt
https://threadloop.app/projects/8 so I have thread in a matching color.
ATM I am deciding between a corduroy and a mystery wool plaid. I probably will go with corduroy, I should upload my fabrics into Threadloop.
I’ve sent you my notes by email to see if it makes sense to you how I came to that conclusion!
They are my own typed notes - so I am certain I have misinterpreted what I’ve originally read or seen. I’ve also studied a lot of others’ glowing reviews of their own experiences of TDCO so I’m sure it’s not your wording.
TDCO is a very robust approach but the issue is that it is not formulaic so to apply it effectively, you have to understand the principles involved. So it is entirely possible that I advised somebody to do this based on what they told me about their body plus the particular pattern they were using and then this became interpreted as a "rule". Because of the diversity of designs, patterns and grading, not to mention body types, there can be no universal formula, fitting is not 'plug and play' but when you understand the principles involved you can work it all out with one toile.
I’ve been spending the weekend redoing my craft room so that it will function better. For all my hobbies. I have a new sewing/cutting table, and I’m so excited to get into this part of the making! I have so many outfits planned in my head, I need my leopard Olive trousers!
Yay, that is so great, a table is basic furniture but makes such a difference!
Yeah, I’ve been using one of those foldable camping tables, it was functional, but not great, not least because it was in front of the drawers for a lot of my paper crafting supplies. We’ve been tearing things down, and putting things up, moving furniture around and doing other fixes in my flat since Friday afternoon. My fabric now has a home! Before it just lived in piles on countertops. My brother and dad built the table to my specifications today, and I can’t wait to use it!
That is so wonderful, a table made for you by special people in your life. Sending you lots of wishes for many magical creations with your brand new table.
I will be there tonight but I am utterly confused how to make any decisions with my half pant leg. Trying not to be overwhelmed!
Do you feel up to showing it to us during the zoom? No worries if not, hopefully the zoom will get you started, I will circle back to the start of fitting the crotch seam and inseam.