What is the MPWM?

Project so far

MPWM is the acronym for Make Pants With Me.

If you are thinking about whether to join the MPWM some background may be helpful.

I started MPWM a year ago with the idea of a make-along for a selection of pant patterns that represent different styles of pant from different pattern companies.

I believe a slow fashion practice requires active engagement, with DIY and wanted a make along that would be realistically paced for learning.

The format of the zooms is for live demonstrations, slides and conversation about body neutral fitting and related topics. Practical combined with the theoretical.

Make With

I like to emphasize the with; making alongside rather than formal instruction¹. There is no point in the MPWM where I have told anyone what to do and some will find this frustrating. It is a space where we deconstruct design and the pattern together with the human body.

We talk about possibilities, about pros and cons. Information and encouragement is mutual. The focus is on principles. If your body covers 5 different sizes on the pattern you may make the same pattern alterations whether those 5 sizes span the bottom or top end of the range. But other decisions such as ease may vary depending on absolute circumference.

Expectation

The expectation is not perfect pants but to be wearing me-made pants every day. I was loving the silhouette of the Shop Pants I made but something was not quite right. After RedSax sews shared a version I realized what was niggling me, I needed a longer leg. Thanks to the MPWM, I knew I would only need one of the two places the pattern suggests for doing this. Learning happens slowly without instructions, and you make decisions yourself. IMO that is the best type of learning.

Making solo but together is also a great way to get over the fact that slow fashion is delayed gratification. The time from acquiring the pattern to finished garment always takes longer than you think it will take and the focus in the group helps to keep on track.

We began with a straight waistband pattern, each subsequent project has got us delving into different aspects of fitting and construction. Each MPWM has expanded on the previous with more in the works.

Where are we headed?

My aims for the group are several. First to bring clarity about my approach in general, particularly when it comes to customizing that all-important crotch curve. Second, I hope for participants to gain confidence, be empowered to make any type of pant whether it is a vintage pattern that only comes in one size for the latest release from a contemporary pattern maker. Third is that by the time we finish, it will be obvious to participants how the principles of body neutral fitting acquired through making pants can be readily applied to other types of garments. The framework² differs but the principles apply universally.

Not ready for a deep dive into pant fitting and construction? Some people are curious and join for the ride, and some for interest in a specific project. That’s all great too. Slow fashion is not going away, it is radical and counter cultural. It takes a leap of comitment to say no to the pervasiveness of fast fashion. Previous MPWM posts are there for anyone looking to catch up. The zoom sessions are not recorded although most of the key information we discuss in the zooms is included in the posts.

If you have any questions please pop them down below and I’ll do my best to answer them.

For MPWM participants

MPWM participants, please order the book now so you can receive it in time for the start weekend February 14th/15th and make sure you have your copy of the Birchgrove pattern. You might find it helpful to check out this post on equipment.

1. Full disclosure, a friend likened the vibe as graduate seminar, I like to think of it as coaching!

2. A section of the book covers the importance of the fitting framework