I recently received some new subscribers, welcome! This Substack was started to discuss all things garment fitting. I believe garment fitting is a human-centered design problem that can be addressed with universal principles that apply to all bodies and designs.
From 2009, here is a sewing educator, David Coffin on fitting frustration (introduction to ’Making Trousers’ ):
If I learned anything from my shirtmaking years, it was that fitting is a huge challenge that can easily eat up all your available time and block all further sewing progress if you let it. It also seemed that even apparently minor fitting problems could continue to resist solution if you didn’t have a pretty comprehensive understanding of all the issues that could be involved.
There is a lot to talk about, the body neutral approach I developed has revolutionized pants fitting making it much more accessible. But there’s nothing like putting talk into practice, hence MakePantsWithMe!
#MPWM is an informal invitation for you to join me in exploring different pant designs and fabrics. Parallel play. Paid subscribers have the additional benefit of zoom sessions and additional content.
To Date
We are just wrapping up the first #MPWM the #OLOlivePants from designer Ora Lin. If you are starting your pants making journey I recommend learning the fundamentals of body neutral pants fitting with a straight waistband pant with a similar amount of ease (check out Threadloop for a list).
The Pant Capsule—Essential Pant Styles
You know those capsule wardrobe lists everyone adores? This is that list, but make it pants. A minimal list of essential pant styles for the contemporary #SlowFashion lifestyle (images for suggestions only).
Straight waistband pants—DONE!Contoured waistband pants—Shop Pant from Open Studio
Cigarette pants
No waistband pants
Sailor pants (a completely different type of pant draft)
Multi-panel pants1
No side seam pants
Jeans
Image from Velvety Cleopatra YouTube 
Levis Reimagined campaign featuring Beyoncé
Betweens
#SlowFashion, like #SlowFood, takes time and intention. We are not churning out product but rolling along giving ourselves the time we need. Smaller projects come in between2. ATM we are making a palette cleanser with the elastic waist Elbe Textiles #FremantlePant.
This would include projects like elastic waist barrel leg pants, different types of pockets, palazzo pants. Dress pants with all the bells and whistles from hanger loops to heel guards. Cargo pants, maybe (p)leather pants, wrap pants or even bias pants? I have focused on non-stretch fabrics but maybe some Ponte pants for travel?
Where Are We Headed?
With each project we will be both exploring and building on the insights from the completed projects. Through the act of making, participants will acquire an in-depth practical knowledge of the fundamental principles of garment fitting. With practice it gets easier. Like riding a bicycle, these are skills you will have forever.
Want to Learn but Not Able to Commit to a Paid Substack Subscription?
There are lots of ways to learn and support my free content. Check out my Instagram account @IthacaMaven for loads of free information about body neutral pants fitting. Ask questions on any post and I’ll do my best to answer them. Show your support by following, liking, commenting, and sharing my work. Stay tuned for a big announcement coming soon!
Follow
for a terrific free video series on Top Down Center Out body neutral pants fitting and all things related to #DIY Making and #SlowFashion.To all my subscribers and fellow pant aficionados, a big big thank you!
xoxo
Ruth
Vertical panels
A riff on betweens, the short fine needles traditionally used by tailors for stitching hems
Would the merchant and mills quinn pant be a sailor pants? I have been eyeing those for a while
Jumpsuits yes, but also overalls with a front bib and straps. Think Ready to Sew Partner Overalls and Merchant and mills Harlene overalls.