Question:
I have a large difference between waist and hips spanning several sizes on the pattern size chart with my body measurement for hips much larger than for waist. What should I look out for?
Answer
If you are fitting #TopDownCenterOut, select the pattern by hip size1. Here are some things to keep in mind:
1. Consider design
Consider the style of pant and in particular the location of the waistline. If the pants have a lowered waistline, the waist/hip difference will be smaller. So the key is not to focus on the absolute measurements alone, but on the distance between the two circumferences of waistline and hip in the chosen style.
2. More shape needs more shaping
A greater waist/hip difference may require a deeper dart or an additional dart. To start, perhaps look for patterns with two darts on both front and back. A curved, or contoured waistband also is a way of creating a garment with more shaping.
3. Check the opening
Make sure the opening/zipper is long enough to get in and out of the garment comfortably, it's quite possible you may prefer a longer zipper than the pattern calls for.
4. Fashion is flexible, there is always a work-around
Elastic waist pull-on pants will have fabric bunched at the waist which is needed to get the pants over the hip. Look for patterns that use thinner fabric. Although it is less convenient than a pull-on, consider adding a closure like a zipper to reduce bulk at the waistline.
Blending between sizes
But what if you have a large difference between waist and hips spanning several sizes with the waist putting you at a larger size than the hip?
If you are a subscriber to The Pattern Pages magazine, I have written an article blending between sizes for pants fitting in the latest issue 39 which is out now, you can also buy a single issue which comes with a free pattern.
Multi-sized patterns made it easier to blend different sizes, particularly circumferences. In this article I introduce the idea that rather than conventional blending between sizes, we can consider the pattern as a menu where each option comes in an array of sizes.
Here are some various sizes of crotch curve that nicely illustrate the point:
The reality is that most people have a body that covers more than one option in the size chart and being able to take advantage of the multi-sized pattern makes fitting easier.
As well as other posts, I hope to make “Pants Fitting Q&A” a regular feature, feel free to ask questions in the comments.
This is a circumference measurement parallel to the floor at the position on the body where the rear end has the most sideways projection
Hi Ruth! Thank you for developing and sharing your approach to fitting pants.
I will take you up on your offer and ask some inter-related questions
What gives you enough sitting room in pants?
Do fat people or certain body shapes need more/different ease and shaping to accommodate the lengthening along the back of the body that happens when we sit (because, eg, fat compresses/changes shape more than muscle when sitting, or because the tilt of your pelvis changes, and you’ve fit that tilt while standing).
When pants are fitted well (and using the design intent) how much should the back waistband pull down when you’re seated?
Reasons for my questions:
- I’ve noticed cashmarette, and who design for larger sizes, suggests using seated hip measurement to choose a pant size (and an early version of your method mentioned seated hip).
- I’ve also noticed they add elastic (often in clever ways) so that it “expands with you as you sit down”.
- I am struggling to fit my first toile (for my first ever pair of woven pants, the Arden pants) it looks good when standing, but when sitting the waist band pulls down a lot (at least 2”). When I try lowering the back crotch 2”, it doesn’t seem like the extra ease then moves with my body as I sit. This could be poor fabric choice for the toile and waistband on my part (the old bed sheet I used is drapy and thin)
Love this. No nonsense, straight forward advice.