I want to try your TDCO method but I have saddlebag or jodhpur thighs that stick out from my hips and the measurement at that location is larger than the largest rear projection of my hip measure . So which should I base my pattern size on?
Hello and welcome, this is a very important question.
Short answer: Use the measurement as described (parallel to floor at the position where the body has the largest rear projection).
This does not mean that the thigh is ignored! When we select a starting size it is somewhat arbitrary, it depends not just on body measurements but also on how the pattern is drafted and graded and the general style. You will adjust if needed in the fitting stage when the body builds the relationship with the design. The reason to select the measurement at the position of largest rear projection as we are selecting for horizontal ease in the crotch seam because this is more challenging for people to recognize and adjust in fitting. This approach is body neutral and assessments of the body that traditional methods call for (is your ankles slender or your butt droopy or whatever) is not needed.
Hello Ruth, I'd like some help choosing between size C and D. I'm 5'6". Full hip = 38.5". Fullest tummy protrusion is 36.5". I don't understand the comment, " Go up ONLY if the front of body would contribute to an apparent hip size of 2" ". (I'm not a wheelchair user. ). Thanks, Annie
You could go either way, I'm thinking perhaps D might be your best bet. Remember this is only a start because you can change during fitting.
I'll make some diagrams to illustrate the point about taking front body parts into consideration. Basically it depends on the extent to which these parts change the overall depth of the lower body from front to back.
Thanks, I will try D. I understand you to mean that I'm looking at how far I stick out in front (from a zero point of a flat belly) and adding that to how far I my butt projects in back. Best wishes for quick recovery from your bug. Annie
Yes, that's exactly the concept. The issue is that it is so easy to get unrealistic about adding to the circumference like this and then the toile ends up too big. Any contribution of front body parts is only one of several factors that can influence the choice of starting size and some of these factors (like the style and grading decisions) may counteract others.
Thanks. Style is so deceptive! The tops of my thighs are wide, and I've often thought that the pleats would give me enough sitting ease. But in many cases crotch depth was still uncomfortably short. I'm very excited to be learning TDCO with you. I've tried before with Stacy's great videos, but having this Q & A available through the process is even better.
It certainly is and I like the way your are reflecting on not just your body but how it is interacting with the design. It is not just one aspect of the design (the pleats) that allows for enough sitting ease. It is the architecture of the entire garment including crotch dimensions collectively that needs to be considered. This is why wrinkle charts are not reliable because they do not take context into account.
I want to try your TDCO method but I have saddlebag or jodhpur thighs that stick out from my hips and the measurement at that location is larger than the largest rear projection of my hip measure . So which should I base my pattern size on?
Hello and welcome, this is a very important question.
Short answer: Use the measurement as described (parallel to floor at the position where the body has the largest rear projection).
This does not mean that the thigh is ignored! When we select a starting size it is somewhat arbitrary, it depends not just on body measurements but also on how the pattern is drafted and graded and the general style. You will adjust if needed in the fitting stage when the body builds the relationship with the design. The reason to select the measurement at the position of largest rear projection as we are selecting for horizontal ease in the crotch seam because this is more challenging for people to recognize and adjust in fitting. This approach is body neutral and assessments of the body that traditional methods call for (is your ankles slender or your butt droopy or whatever) is not needed.
Is there a worksheet specific to the Freemantle Pants? Thanks.
Found it!
Great!
Hiya--- Where is the project worksheet? TIA
https://ithacamaven.substack.com/p/mpwm-ololivepants
Thank you so much !!!
Hello Ruth, I'd like some help choosing between size C and D. I'm 5'6". Full hip = 38.5". Fullest tummy protrusion is 36.5". I don't understand the comment, " Go up ONLY if the front of body would contribute to an apparent hip size of 2" ". (I'm not a wheelchair user. ). Thanks, Annie
You could go either way, I'm thinking perhaps D might be your best bet. Remember this is only a start because you can change during fitting.
I'll make some diagrams to illustrate the point about taking front body parts into consideration. Basically it depends on the extent to which these parts change the overall depth of the lower body from front to back.
Thanks, I will try D. I understand you to mean that I'm looking at how far I stick out in front (from a zero point of a flat belly) and adding that to how far I my butt projects in back. Best wishes for quick recovery from your bug. Annie
Yes, that's exactly the concept. The issue is that it is so easy to get unrealistic about adding to the circumference like this and then the toile ends up too big. Any contribution of front body parts is only one of several factors that can influence the choice of starting size and some of these factors (like the style and grading decisions) may counteract others.
Thanks. Style is so deceptive! The tops of my thighs are wide, and I've often thought that the pleats would give me enough sitting ease. But in many cases crotch depth was still uncomfortably short. I'm very excited to be learning TDCO with you. I've tried before with Stacy's great videos, but having this Q & A available through the process is even better.
It certainly is and I like the way your are reflecting on not just your body but how it is interacting with the design. It is not just one aspect of the design (the pleats) that allows for enough sitting ease. It is the architecture of the entire garment including crotch dimensions collectively that needs to be considered. This is why wrinkle charts are not reliable because they do not take context into account.