Yes you can

Make pants that fit

You can do it.

There is a learning curve for sure, but you can do it and do it by yourself. If you can make an omelette, you can make pants that fit.

What does it take? The key thing to understand is that making pants that fit is surprisingly not about “learning to sew”. Yes you need to know how to operate a sewing machine. But the actual sewing is just one element of the project. This is about creating. It is about slow fashion, as with slow food only here you are cooking up a garment from basic ingredients.

Here is how it goes:

1. Purchase a quality commercial pants pattern.

2. Fitting. Make a mock-up of the pattern and adjust for custom fit.

3. Construction. Use the pattern to cut out the fabric and construct the pants.

4. Wear the pants.

Each one of these stages is made up of multiple procedures. Each procedure can be readily accomplished but collectively require both management skills and motivation. In my opinion, keeping one’s project mojo going is even more or equally as challenging as learning how to install a zipper.

When learning, you want the simplest effective version of each procedure so you can complete the project. Getting to the end is key. We cook to eat, we create garments to wear.

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Quality Pants Pattern

Start with a basic pants/slacks/trousers pattern designed for non-stretch plain weave woven fabric. It is challenging to identify a well designed and drafted pattern. One approach to answer this question comes from behavioral economics. If the pattern was used to make commercial garments, would the garments be commercially successful? One example of a designer with such speciality and experience is the Japanese American designer Tamotsu, and Vogue Tamotsu patterns are well worthwhile seeking out. Ditto for Rachel Comey Vogue patterns. Something to bear in mind is that a contoured waistband takes more skill to fit and construct than a straight waistband which is the rationale for recommending a straight waistband for people who are new to garment sewing.
The fitting principles learned through the process can be readily applied to other styles. Elastic waistbands, ankle pleats, vintage styles, self-drafted, you name it, the approach is flexible but I highly recommend starting out using a conventional contemporary pattern. Some examples suitable for beginners are listed below:

Adams pants, designer Daughter Judy Patterns

Coe Trousers, designer Daughter Judy Patterns

Shop Pants, designer Open Studio Patterns

High Waisted Trousers, designer The Assembly Line

Protea Pants, designer Paradise Patterns

Wide Leg Pants, Peppermint Magazine designer In The Folds

KnowMe2028, designer Aaronica B. Cole

Tatjana Trousers, designer Just Patterns

Fremantle pants, designer Elbe Textiles

Worker Trousers, designer Modern Sewing Co.

Fitting

Fitting pants was traditionally considered an angsty rate limiting step for people making their own garments. The #TopDownCenterOut method is for people who are producing garments for themselves from a commercial pattern. It is straightforward and achievable, putting the maker in charge of fitting. It respects the time of the maker and honors the process as both an act of self-expression and self-care. Read the printed article and online supplementary material on Instagram (@ithacamaven) for instruction, watch the YouTube videos from Stacey aka The Crooked Hem.

Construction

Thanks to Nancy Zeiman, everything you need is described in this booklet. From how to operate a sewing machine, read a pattern and construct the pants it is all here.

Wear the pants

Prepare yourself for the experience of wearing pants that fit. It’s a great feeling. My faves are wool trousers from a Tamotsu pattern, V1437, lined with silk. The design and fabric quality makes these pants hard-working and functional; cool in summer and warm in winter. They fit with supreme comfort. These have been worn non-stop and the pants look as fresh as the day they came off the machine. Thanks to the prewashed fabric, the trousers can be machine laundered, a significant advantage when one considers the toxic environmental impact of dry cleaning.

The end of a project is a good time to reflect for learning and moving forward. Compare the customized pattern with the original. Do the alterations make sense? Does wearing this style influence your aesthetic? Does the fabric choice compatible with the garment? Is the waistband comfortable both morning and evening? What will you make next?