Bringing it home
Oxbow pants adjustments
Here’s where I arrived at this week with my Oxbows which I will show you in the live session coming up. It is different to the first round of fitting I showed last week. Although it was a great crotch fit, I had to revisit the adjustments in order to have the hem be on grain.
As we know, the architecture of pants is akin to a tensegrity structure, all parts must play nicely with each other. There’s always more than one way to achieve a particular outcome.
The beauty of this system of fitting is that we can play around with different combinations on the same toile as we decide what works best for the version of the design together with our body.
Decisions are not always straightforward. At the initial stage there is no commitment, it’s just a first date. If the crotch seam fits but refuses to play nicely when the side seam is adjusted, we undo and start over1.
As is obvious from the above diagram I lowered the waistline considerably. I’m still procrastinating over that decision but I need to pull the trigger and I’m grateful for the MPWM participants that help me keep it moving along!
Transfering adjustments to the paper pattern
Transfering the adjustments to the paper pattern needs some refinement and here is where curved rulers come in handy.
For example I am thinking of refining part of the side seam like so:
Using the curved ruler is described in this post .
Here is the downloadable version of a hip curve. Previous MPWM participants have t his already, what is new is that I have updated with a metric version! There is one version for a home printer and a digital version for projectors.