Looking forward to this MPWM. I just received my book and have started reading through it.
I do want to make the bias pants so I’m wondering what type of fabric you recommend for both the toile and the actual pants. I’d like to get started looking — I’ll probably have to order on line.
So far I am at the toile stage where and using a sheet. For the fashion fabric, the Gala pants seem to come in a variety of different fabric types so this will need some experimentation. There is a Vogue bias pant V2140 where they suggest a crepe but also lawn or chiffon and similar with the Vela bias pants which uses a more drapey fabric but I was wondering about something more crisp and then making a matching top in the same fabric.
Hi Ruth - The primary topic that interests me as we dive into this new session is about your statement that the Birchgrove crotch is cut on the vertical grain. I looked back at the Shop Pants pattern and, to me, it looks like the back crotch seam is more angled away from the vertical grain than the front, especially in the 00-18 range. How a straighter crotch seam will affect the drape of the pant leg will be interesting to explore. Looking forward to this next project! Nan
Agreed! It’s also what gave me the idea of using this for the bias of the Gala pant because it will be true bias in the center with a seam on bias rather than a bias garment sewn on straight grain.
This looks soooo exciting. I am sitting on the fence because I am not sure about the dates, but any time spent with you is something new learnt and so I am curious. Also I am the the very end of their sizing chart something that is new to me and I am curious to try this out.
That is a good question, I struggle with how to answer this question because if I was teaching I would recommend starting with a pattern that has a straight waistband. I would not want you to be put off by the nerdy detail we get into in the Substack. Maybe check out this post where I go through what beginner need at each stage in detail and see how familiar it seems? https://ithacamaven.substack.com/p/diy-pants The book has been tested on first time makers using it to make pants as a first project with a sewing machine.
I think there’s several people from the Coven who’s planning on getting into TDCO with this project. They have been looking at Vivienne and I, and have now finally been tempted into the water. They are all new to the method though!
Yay! The book was written exactly for this purpose. I wish I had been able to offer this a few years ago but it is never too late. With the book and @thecrookedhem YouTube videos you are all set and if you are able to join the Substack zooms this be a great in-real-time bonus.
Can you please forward me your confirmatory email? Paid subscribers should be able to order for immediate delivery and I'm wondering where that came from, thanks!
Yes, the cut of the crotch is very perpendicular and so I was thinking it would look cool on the bias with striped fabric but it is a complete experiment.
I prepare the same material and topics to cover both sessions in different time zones. In previous MPWM there are differences eg if somebody sends photos for discussion but can only make one session. I do think the Sunday people get the benefit as sometimes questions pop up on the previous session that I don't have prepared material handy so I can get that ready for the Sunday session. Full disclosure: Both sessions have often gone over the allotted time of 1 hour but I'm trying my best to keep to schedule.
Yes, going beyond the size range is an issue that crops up frequently in fitting and we have not delved into grading very much so far (although not everyone will need that for this project).
No need to prepare before the first session unless you want to get started on your toile. I am going to fit first and then think about fabric, i.e. shop the stash if possible. Otherwise it is a trip out to my local drug dealer/fabric shop.
Hi Ruth, Did you get my order from a few weeks ago? I thought it went through but can't find it in my email. Which email is the confirmation sent from? Thanks.
And, looking at the Birchgrove pants, this is my fav type of pant; linen is my fav type of fabric! Then, the gala pants! (drool!!!)
So - with the bias, this means rotating the Birchgrove pattern 45 degrees, right? I haven't got the pattern yet but you mentioned it's cut on the vertical grain. If we go w/ the bias, doesn't that usually mean needing a bunch more fabric? Also, if going on the bias, we can go (or maybe 'should' go) w/ a stiffer fabric as constructing garments on the bias gives a lot more drape -- yes/no?
Yes, pants on the bias will need a lot more fabric. If we are using stripes, we will end up with a lovely X where the two sides meet. Re fabric type I can share what is done for other types of garments and the ultimate is to go with a drapey soft fabric but cutting bias pants is much more unusual and pants do need to be relatively substantial. This calls for experimentation, check out the Isabel Toledo bias pants shown here https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/gallery/wwd-archives-isabel-toledo-1236550208/a-look-back-in-wwds-archives-at-isabel-toledos-fashion-moments-10/ —I have the pattern for these pants I will show as a reference.
I just did a quick look via searches. if you have a pic that would be very helpful to me! chat gpt almost gave me a pic but not quit. it seems the left leg (front and back) slants one way and the right leg (front and back) slants the other.
I think I may do this the easy way first! ie no bias.
Thank you! It will be interesting to see how it turns out, I meant to check out the Gala pants last time I was in NYC so see what they are like in person, they look so fab on everyone.
I'll have to catch up the second week! It's Mardi Gras. For the rest of the world it's just Tuesday-- that goes full blast on Wednesday (11th) with Krewe of Muses.
Ruth, the Galas are a straight leg and these are tapered. If we make them on the bias will we also be straightening the legs to remove the taper? I'm flying back to the UK that weekend-- since there won't be personal fitting pics would you consider taping the intro discussion please?
Looking forward to this MPWM. I just received my book and have started reading through it.
I do want to make the bias pants so I’m wondering what type of fabric you recommend for both the toile and the actual pants. I’d like to get started looking — I’ll probably have to order on line.
So far I am at the toile stage where and using a sheet. For the fashion fabric, the Gala pants seem to come in a variety of different fabric types so this will need some experimentation. There is a Vogue bias pant V2140 where they suggest a crepe but also lawn or chiffon and similar with the Vela bias pants which uses a more drapey fabric but I was wondering about something more crisp and then making a matching top in the same fabric.
I have some wool crepe. I wonder if that would work?
Hi Ruth - The primary topic that interests me as we dive into this new session is about your statement that the Birchgrove crotch is cut on the vertical grain. I looked back at the Shop Pants pattern and, to me, it looks like the back crotch seam is more angled away from the vertical grain than the front, especially in the 00-18 range. How a straighter crotch seam will affect the drape of the pant leg will be interesting to explore. Looking forward to this next project! Nan
Agreed! It’s also what gave me the idea of using this for the bias of the Gala pant because it will be true bias in the center with a seam on bias rather than a bias garment sewn on straight grain.
This looks soooo exciting. I am sitting on the fence because I am not sure about the dates, but any time spent with you is something new learnt and so I am curious. Also I am the the very end of their sizing chart something that is new to me and I am curious to try this out.
Agreed, a challenge for myself and others too, I am planning on adding 3 inches onto the side for the toile.
Is this one ok to join as a first time tdbo pants fitter? I’m excited to see pants that fit without a thousand muslins!
That is a good question, I struggle with how to answer this question because if I was teaching I would recommend starting with a pattern that has a straight waistband. I would not want you to be put off by the nerdy detail we get into in the Substack. Maybe check out this post where I go through what beginner need at each stage in detail and see how familiar it seems? https://ithacamaven.substack.com/p/diy-pants The book has been tested on first time makers using it to make pants as a first project with a sewing machine.
I think there’s several people from the Coven who’s planning on getting into TDCO with this project. They have been looking at Vivienne and I, and have now finally been tempted into the water. They are all new to the method though!
Being engaged in a project is such a great way to learn, we can talk theory all day but this is a physical activity with a tangible end product.
I’m going to give it a try! Anything you want me to read or do ahead appreciated 💜
Yay! The book was written exactly for this purpose. I wish I had been able to offer this a few years ago but it is never too late. With the book and @thecrookedhem YouTube videos you are all set and if you are able to join the Substack zooms this be a great in-real-time bonus.
Book isn’t available yet, though, right? I pre-ordered from your link but I thought it said delivery in September.
Can you please forward me your confirmatory email? Paid subscribers should be able to order for immediate delivery and I'm wondering where that came from, thanks!
I’ve purchased the book!
Yay, I'm excited for you to read it!
Not following here,what is the book you are talking about?
Posted in Substack subscriber chat and I will send you an email!
Nm, it just came, I’m so excited!
Is the plan to make the birchgroves as is and then hack them to the bias?
Yes, the cut of the crotch is very perpendicular and so I was thinking it would look cool on the bias with striped fabric but it is a complete experiment.
Can you elaborate why scooping is a hot button topic?
Probably others can chime in here because I do not have an answer. I think scooping was promoted as a catch-all pattern fitting adjustment for trousers and it became a topic for debate rather than a discussion, check out https://thesewcialists.com/2021/05/10/allbuttswelcome-to-scoop-or-not-to-scoop/
Are the Sunday Zooms a repeat of Saturday or a continuation? I’m trying to get it all on my calendar. ✔️
I prepare the same material and topics to cover both sessions in different time zones. In previous MPWM there are differences eg if somebody sends photos for discussion but can only make one session. I do think the Sunday people get the benefit as sometimes questions pop up on the previous session that I don't have prepared material handy so I can get that ready for the Sunday session. Full disclosure: Both sessions have often gone over the allotted time of 1 hour but I'm trying my best to keep to schedule.
Thank you!
I would like to participate. Will you be showing grading to smaller measurements than offered in the Birchgrove?
Yes, going beyond the size range is an issue that crops up frequently in fitting and we have not delved into grading very much so far (although not everyone will need that for this project).
Is there anything we need to prepare before the first session? What fabric and weight of fabric are people considering for these pants? Thanks.
No need to prepare before the first session unless you want to get started on your toile. I am going to fit first and then think about fabric, i.e. shop the stash if possible. Otherwise it is a trip out to my local drug dealer/fabric shop.
Will your "fit first" start with bias or straight of grain on your toile?
Nevermind, I read further down in the comments and found the answer.
Yes, many of us will need to also grade the pattern
Hi Ruth, Did you get my order from a few weeks ago? I thought it went through but can't find it in my email. Which email is the confirmation sent from? Thanks.
Great! I’m not spacing out! We haven’t received mail for a week. It’s a frozen mess here.
Yes I have it from January 19th, I will forward it. I bet the delay is from the crazy weather as it was posted January 20th.
Where do I buy your book? I have scoured insta and substance but can't find the place to buy?
At the moment this is only available MPWM participants (or if you live near me you can get it in my local fabric store).
I got my book! (!!!) <3 <3 <3
And, looking at the Birchgrove pants, this is my fav type of pant; linen is my fav type of fabric! Then, the gala pants! (drool!!!)
So - with the bias, this means rotating the Birchgrove pattern 45 degrees, right? I haven't got the pattern yet but you mentioned it's cut on the vertical grain. If we go w/ the bias, doesn't that usually mean needing a bunch more fabric? Also, if going on the bias, we can go (or maybe 'should' go) w/ a stiffer fabric as constructing garments on the bias gives a lot more drape -- yes/no?
Yes, pants on the bias will need a lot more fabric. If we are using stripes, we will end up with a lovely X where the two sides meet. Re fabric type I can share what is done for other types of garments and the ultimate is to go with a drapey soft fabric but cutting bias pants is much more unusual and pants do need to be relatively substantial. This calls for experimentation, check out the Isabel Toledo bias pants shown here https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/gallery/wwd-archives-isabel-toledo-1236550208/a-look-back-in-wwds-archives-at-isabel-toledos-fashion-moments-10/ —I have the pattern for these pants I will show as a reference.
Do you have the pattern number?
V2140 (contemporary) and V1869 (vintage)
I just did a quick look via searches. if you have a pic that would be very helpful to me! chat gpt almost gave me a pic but not quit. it seems the left leg (front and back) slants one way and the right leg (front and back) slants the other.
I think I may do this the easy way first! ie no bias.
Absolutely, this is the way to go! 'Easy' first!
I'll post the photo in the chat.
Thank you SO much for sharing my Gala review ! I feel very honored and now also very curious about seeing the end result for these pants 🤩 !
Thank you! It will be interesting to see how it turns out, I meant to check out the Gala pants last time I was in NYC so see what they are like in person, they look so fab on everyone.
I'll have to catch up the second week! It's Mardi Gras. For the rest of the world it's just Tuesday-- that goes full blast on Wednesday (11th) with Krewe of Muses.
That sounds absolutely incredible and a lot of fun!
Ruth, the Galas are a straight leg and these are tapered. If we make them on the bias will we also be straightening the legs to remove the taper? I'm flying back to the UK that weekend-- since there won't be personal fitting pics would you consider taping the intro discussion please?
Yes, making the leg wider/narrower is part of pattern hacking., the destination circumferences we are aiming for at the hem.