IthacaMaven’s Substack

IthacaMaven’s Substack

More fun with draglines

Also serious stuff

Ithaca Maven's avatar
Ithaca Maven
Aug 01, 2025
∙ Paid
8
9
Share

Down the rabbit hole of peanut gallery fitting with one more discussion and then back to regularly scheduled programming.

This example nicely illustrates an important aspect of crotch seam fitting many of us encountered during our #OLOlivePants #MPWM.

Chapter Headings:

  1. More Diagonal Draglines??

  2. The Fine Print

  3. Time is Precious

  4. Diagnosis: Inadequate Crotch Seam Fitting

  5. Test This for Yourself

  6. How To Avoid Getting Into This Situation

  7. Why Wrinkle Charts Are Unreliable


More Diagonal Draglines??

Today I invite you to look at these ‘smiles around the butt’ draglines:

“What the heck?” you might be saying to yourself, “didn’t we discuss those in a recent post where you said this was an issue of balance between the center and the side? These draglines look like the same thing, no?”

And yes, if you thought this, you would be correct, they do look like the same thing!

The Fine Print

But … let me point out the fine print. First, in the previous post, I assumed that the crotch and inseam (the ‘center’) was already sorted. Second, I suggested some simple rearranging of the pant to check that it really was an issue of balance as suggested, i.e. an independent test that the diagnosis was on track BEFORE spending time on alterations.

Time is Precious

Time is precious. Before committing to an alteration there should always be a way to determine if the diagnosis is on track; it does not have to be a guessing game. Go back to the toile if necessary. Using the half-pant toile prepared for TDCO enables you to readily trial different alterations or combinations of alterations with zero commitment. With pins, clips, basting and tape, everything can be undone and redone.

Diagnosis: Inadequate Crotch Seam Fit

Back to the issue at hand. These types of diagonal draglines are a problem of crotch seam fitting, the stage BEFORE we get to balancing the center with the sides. They are often associated with complaints like “too much fabric underneath the bum” and “no matter how much I take in the side seam it doesn’t help”.

The internet is chock full of examples of this phenomenon for all you armchair pant fitting enthusiasts.

This post is for paid subscribers

Already a paid subscriber? Sign in
© 2025 Ithaca Maven
Privacy ∙ Terms ∙ Collection notice
Start your SubstackGet the app
Substack is the home for great culture